On July 20, 2024, Upper Antelope Slot Canyon Tours, based in Page, offered a Locals Day to residents of the Page area. While not free, it cost a lot less than the full price. I reserved the 12:25 tour in advance. We met at 55 N. Lake Powell Blvd., checked in and waited until the guides were ready for us to board one of the ‘luxury 4x4 vans’ as described on the company website, capable of holding at least a dozen people from the world over.
Left to right, photos by Phil Clark:
A sunbeam kisses the bottom of the canyon.
Our guide showed us how sometimes little sandfalls can happen.
As I sat on a bench in the lobby, I reflected on the time I last visited Upper Antelope, or as it was known then, Upper Corkscrew Cave. Few people had heard of it then, much less been there. The canyon did seem to be a long cave since many times it was impossible to see the top of the canyon from the canyon floor. In 1990, people learned about the canyon from friends or family members. We would take people we knew to the canyon entrance in my Toyota 4x4 Pickup. It was a rough ride, but the sand was no problem. We hiked, or really walked up the slot canyon about 800 feet to where it opens again, turned back, seeing the canyon in both directions. Back then, we usually had it to ourselves, taking photos with film on tripods since the darkness made for slow shutter speeds. Electronic flash was too harsh. We marveled at the variety of colors as the sun pierced the crack in the earth.
The curved canyon walls are much wider apart at the bottom of the canyon than at the top giving hikers the sense of a natural cathedral. The light from the narrow crack at the top of the canyon reflected off the canyon walls. Sometimes the light would touch the floor of the canyon, creating a light beam. As photographers published their images, visitors showed up in Page to see the canyon with the light beam. Our group was lucky to be able to see the shafts of sunlight. Our guide helped make the beams visible by tossing sand in the beam. The results were beautiful.
Having not been in the canyon in so long, I wanted to see it again. The hike is really more of a walk on a relatively level wash bottom. Back then we were our own guides from past experiences in the canyon. Now, with a native guide, a visitor can take great photos from locations and angles known by the guide and get an insight on Navajo culture.
Tomai, our softspoken guide, soon invited us to board one of three - 14 passenger vans. Once everyone boarded, and the guide reminded everyone to wear seatbelts, we drove to the canyon and turned on a packed sand road that ended up following the bottom of a sandy wash for a few minutes. The sand is what requires a 4x4 vehicle. It is deep and soft and easy to get stuck for novices. A few minutes later, and a few bumps to make the ride exciting, our guide arrived at the entrance of the canyon. Leaving the air-conditioned van, we made our way to the sandstone wall where the tall and narrow slit marks the start of our tour. Other groups were already in the canyon as we were getting ready to start. Unlike in the last century, there were several tour vehicles parked there. As we chatted, Tomai found it amusing that the last time I’d been in the canyon was when he was one year old.
Our guide did a great job guiding our group. He knew where to stop for the best photo angles and helped guests with their phone settings to capture the best exposures and colors. Most of the time the canyon is so dark and is sometimes interrupted by a beam of light shining on a part of the walls. The high contrast of light can make it tricky to take a photo. Modern cameras and cell phones do a remarkable job compared to film cameras that usually required a tripod. Today, tripods, selfie and walking sticks are not allowed on the tours and the only bag of any kind must be sturdy clear plastic so contents are easily seen.
Regular bags and backpacks are not allowed because there have been guests, unaware of traditional Navajo beliefs, who have brought ashes of lost loved ones to scatter in the canyon. Not only is this forbidden by the conditions of the tour, but it is exceedingly disrespectful to the Navajo people, or Dine’ as they call themselves. Ashes desecrate the canyon and often requires a Navajo Ceremony by a Medicine Man to cleanse the canyon.
Before we left the canyon, Tomai played a few bars on his native flute. The music echoed off the walls and made the visit even more memorable. Once we had completed our tour of the canyon, Tomai led us back to the van along a series of steel stairs and walkways, constructed around 2020. Many were covered to protect from the sun.
“Back in the Day” is a new column appearing periodically in the Southern Utah News. Having lived in Page twice, I often call myself an “old timer who hasn’t been here the whole time”. With the column, I plan to tell stories from the old days.
