Editor’s Note: One of my first and favorite columns to write when I started at Southern Utah News was a series of local restaurant reviews. As I transitioned into more of the event and political reporting and increased my editing load, I couldn’t keep the food reviews coming - however, after a few requests to bring the reviews back, I called in an old writing pal to resurrect the column. Per their request, they got an alias with a fancy French name so they would fit in next to Benny “Sunshine” Soleil. It is my pleasure to introduce “Fork to Finish” with Frank Fromage.
Imagine my delight when an old friend calls me and tells me there is, in a small town nearby, a combination of Mongolian Grill and southern hospitality - and that, no less, he’s willing to pay me to sample the food! Not one to look a gift horse in the mouth, I hurried to Glendale, Utah, to try the food at Brink’s Grill and Country Store.
Now, Mongolian Style food is hard to review, simply because the customer is in charge of assembling their own recipe. I myself made a combination of pork, beef, tofu and assorted veggies and mushrooms, with a healthy helping of sweet chili sauce and garlic for my first plate. For my second return to the all-you-can-eat style buffet, I piled on chow mein noodles, chicken, beans and rice, with bbq sauce and lime. Those combinations suited my taste, once again simply because each patron customizes their own dish at a Mongolian Grill-style location.
What I can review though, is the ingredient quality and the kind service of the people there.
The Brinkerhoffs were gracious and helpful. Mr. Brinkerhoff offered to put an extra burger on the grill for me if I wanted, no extra cost, and gestured me to the condiments island if I were so inclined. Mrs. Brinkerhoff introduced me to the buffet line and all its options, kept me well stocked with options for drinks and desserts… and introduced me to some of the choices in the trading post. I took an ice cream sandwich to go, a decision I did not regret.
Now, I am not a resident of Glendale, which makes it all the more significant that even I could tell this so-called “Old Country Store” meant something to the town and her people. The simple fact that the Brinkerhoffs knew the names of a good majority of their patrons meant they are part of the town. That, plus the central location on the main street, the construction of the building, I could see this was something that someone felt was worth preserving.
My credit and compliments to Brink’s Grill. The food is good, the service is better and the culture the restaurant is steeped in is more hospitable than just about any place I’ve been. If you go, my recommendation is something zesty, with sweet chili and a touch of lime!
